Resionous, Woody, Leather, Earthy.

Cedrus spp.

Cedar is a dry, woody note that can have resinous, earthy, slightly sweet, or even smoky facets. The aroma of dry, burnt, or smoky cedar wood is described with nuances that evoke warmth, depth, and an earthy, elegant character: Atlas Cedar (Cedrus atlantica): drier and earthier; Virginia Cedar (Juniperus virginiana): softer, with hints of a freshly sharpened pencil; Chinese or Texas Cedar: with more intense, sometimes harsher facets. The aroma can be perceived as Dry: like an antique piece of furniture or a cigar box; Smoky: like extinguished embers or smoldering firewood; Resinous: like a sun-dried coniferous forest; Slightly Sweet: if the cedar has a warm, resinous touch.

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Ambergris (Ambar gris)

Ambergris (ambergris) is one of the rarest and most valuable ingredients in perfumery. Its aroma is unique, complex, and difficult to describe precisely, but I’ll detail its main olfactory characteristics: Marine/Saline: It has a quality reminiscent of the ocean—sea breeze, dried seaweed, saltiness—but without being harsh; Soft Animalic: It has a slightly musky base, with animal nuances (but not unpleasant), similar to the smell of clean skin or sunshine on the skin; Sweet Amber: Although its name may suggest, it does not smell like resinous “amber.” Its sweetness is more creamy and velvety, like nutty or soft tobacco, earthy and warm, with a slightly earthy or damp base, like aged wood, moss, or even wet leather; Diffuse and Enveloping: Its scent is not pungent or direct. Rather, it is ethereal, almost imperceptible at first, but it settles and gives depth and longevity to a perfume. It provides a natural fixative: it helps other fragrances last longer, it rounds out the composition: it unites the notes of a perfume like a warm veil, it provides sensuality and a sensation of clean yet exotic skin.

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Aquilaria malaccensis (Agarwood)

Agarwood is one of the most coveted, rare, and expensive ingredients in luxury perfumery. Its aroma has a unique depth and complexity that make it highly prized in both Western and Eastern perfumery (especially Arabic and Indian). A dark, aromatic, dense, and complex resin that is later transformed into OUD. Deep, dense woody, with dry notes. Balsamic: slightly sweet and resinous. Animalistic: some varieties have a musky, leathery, or even “dirty” note. Ergo, it is reminiscent of damp earth or moss. Smoky: in some cases, it has a burnt or incense-like character. It is a scent that can be polarizing, loved by many for its richness and mysticism, and rejected by others for its intensity or animalic character.

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Cistus ladanifer (Ládano)

Labdanum is one of the most iconic raw materials in perfumery, especially in oriental compositions, amber, and leather. Its aroma is complex, warm, and enveloping, with an olfactory profile that combines resinous, balsamic, sweet, animalic, and slightly amber notes. The scent of labdanum is frequently described as: Warm and deep, ambery, with a sweet and resinous richness, with animalic nuances (slightly dirty or animalic), touches of leather, incense, and sometimes honey, balsamic sensation, This aroma gives body and persistence to perfumes, especially in the base notes.

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Commiphora myrrha (Mirra)

In perfumery, myrrh is a precious and ancient ingredient that has been used for millennia, both in religious rituals and in luxury perfume formulations. The scent of myrrh is deep, warm, and balsamic, with nuances that can be described as: Resinous: Like incense, but more earthy; Bittersweet: It has a soft sweetness but with a dry or bitter undertone; Earthy and woody: Reminiscent of dry wood or even leather; Lightly spiced with smoky notes. Myrrh is generally used as a base note, as it has great hold and depth. It brings richness, warmth, and a mystical character to the fragrance.

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Boswellia spp. (FrankInsiense)

In modern perfumery, frankincense provides a warm, resinous, and slightly citrusy note with woody and spicy undertones. The aroma is described as: Resinous: This is the predominant note. Warm and slightly sweet: It provides depth without being cloying. Citrus and earthy, some types of frankincense have an almost dry lemon or camphoraceous undertone. Woody and balsamic, similar to the scent of dry woods, with a soft, enveloping base. Mystical and meditative, it is commonly associated with the spiritual, the sacred, and the introspective. Base note: Provides persistence and depth to the perfume. Natural fixative: Helps stabilize and prolong other more volatile aromas.

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Amber"

It’s an accord, not a specific substance. The amber note in perfumery is traditionally a blend of balsamic resins (such as benzoin or labdanum), vanilla or vanillin, musks, and sometimes includes incense or patchouli. This accord seeks to create a sweet, warm, resinous, and slightly powdery sensation. Sweet amber: More oriented towards vanilla and musks, with a gourmand touch. Dry amber: More earthy, with notes of resin, incense, or even leather. Ambergris (ambergris) – a very rare (and valuable) animal product.

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Styrax benzoin (Benjuí)

Its aroma is warm, sweet, and balsamic, with vanilla and slightly spicy undertones. It is a highly prized note in perfumery for its ability to add depth, softness, and longevity to fragrances. Base note.

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Betula pendula (Abedul)

The scent of birch in perfumery is a rather distinctive and evocative note, which has been used for centuries, especially in compositions seeking to convey a sense of leather, smoky wood, or rugged naturalness. Birch’s scent has historically been used as a base for leather notes.

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Santalum album (Sándalo)

Elegant, minimalist, and refined. Sandalwood is one of the most prized notes in perfumery for its unique characteristics. It is generally described as warm, woody, creamy, and slightly sweet, evoking sensations of tranquility, elegance, and sophistication. It also acts as a fixative, enhancing the fragrance’s longevity on the skin. Perceived as velvety and refined, sometimes with a slightly gourmand or sweet almond note, it combines warmth, envelopment, and a lingering presence, making it highly appreciated in both masculine and unisex fragrances. Prized for its olfactory richness, persistence, versatility, and ability to evoke sensations of calm and sophistication.

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Juniperus

It has a distinctive aroma that makes it valuable in olfactory compositions, especially in masculine or unisex fragrances. Like all woods, it provides a warm, dry, and structured base; it can have slightly smoky or resinous notes. It provides a natural, slightly powdery, or dry forest character. It has herbal nuances, similar to those of juniper needles, and can provide a slightly animal or leathery background.

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Chrysopogon

It is one of the most iconic ingredients in perfumery, especially in the woody and earthy fragrance category. Its aroma is complex, deep, and very distinctive, and it has been used for centuries in perfumes, especially in men’s compositions, although today it also appears in unisex and women’s perfumes. Multifaceted, some of its most common nuances include: Earthy: like damp earth or dry mud, very natural and organic, Woody: with a sensation similar to sandalwood or cedar, but darker, Smoky or slightly toasted: in some varieties, especially Javanese vetiver, Green and herbal: especially in the top notes, Warm and dry: ideal for giving depth and body to a fragrance, it has a very “earthy” smell, evoking nature and authenticity, it combines well with citrus fruits, spices, flowers, and other woods, it gives personality without being too invasive.

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Pogostemon

Patchouli is one of the most distinctive and long-lasting ingredients in perfumery. Its aroma is deep, earthy, woody, and slightly sweet, with moist nuances that can recall wet earth, dried leaves, incense, or even leather, depending on how it’s worked into the composition. Its intensity and longevity make it ideal for setting perfumes. Its intensity leaves no one indifferent; it can be sensual, mystical, and exotic, or overwhelming, depending on personal taste. In niche perfumery, patchouli is often used in rawer or more complex forms.

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Nicotiana

The smell of tobacco leaves in perfumery is a highly valued ingredient for its warm, woody, and slightly sweet character, with earthy notes and sometimes smoky or leathery undertones. It is not the strong smell of a burnt cigarette, but rather the natural, rich fragrance of the leaves. Warm and comforting: it adds depth and richness to compositions. Woody and earthy: it gives a natural and organic effect, with a rustic touch. Sweet and smooth: in some versions it can have nuances of honey, vanilla, or caramel, which soften the aroma. Lightly smoky: reminiscent of tradition and classic luxury. It is widely used in oriental, woody, and spicy fragrances.

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Leather"

Intriguing, sophisticated, and sometimes divisive. It doesn’t literally smell like a newly purchased leather jacket, but rather evokes associations with worked leather, tanned hides, and environments like vintage salons and luxury cars. The goal is to evoke the feel of leather rather than imitate it completely. Leather has something luxurious, sensual, mysterious, and powerful about it. It can also evoke nostalgia or make a bold statement. It’s not a scent for everyone, but those who love it often seek perfumes with character.

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Elettaria

For its spicy sensuality, it is considered a natural aphrodisiac in some cultures, which reinforces its use in seductive fragrances. It is used as a top note in many fragrances, although its versatility allows it to also be present in the heart of some compositions. It helps give brightness and energy to the fragrance without being aggressive. Cardamom is an aromatic spice highly prized in perfumery for its distinctive, versatile, and exotic character. Its aroma is fresh, spicy, and slightly sweet, with citrus and green nuances. It adds a sophisticated and stimulating touch to many olfactory compositions, both masculine and feminine.

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Cinnamomum

It has a warm, spicy, sweet, and slightly woody aroma, which adds depth, sensuality, and character to a fragrance. Cinnamon is closely linked to emotions such as warmth, comfort, and the exotic. It evokes memories of home, winter, sweets, or rituals, making it popular in cozy or seductive perfumes. It adds a touch of spicy sensuality and mystery, especially in evening or cold-weather perfumes. Widely used in unisex or intense masculine fragrances, although it also appears in seductive feminine ones. It combines well with vanilla, clove, incense, sandalwood, patchouli, amber, and even citrus fruits.

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Glycyrrhiza

The scent of licorice in perfumery is distinctive, versatile, and often polarizing. It can provide a sweet, spicy, or slightly bitter note. It has a sweet, earthy, slightly balsamic scent with an anise-like undertone. It is not cloyingly sweet, but more mysterious, like toasted caramel with a herbal undertone. Natural licorice has a herbaceous note, sometimes close to anise or fennel. Combined with vanilla, amber, or patchouli, it can be very seductive and enveloping.

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Coffe

Coffee is a very interesting and popular note in perfumery, especially in modern and oriental fragrances. It provides depth and warmth, a bitter or smoky touch, an addictive and enveloping sensation, and is often associated with intimate moments, nighttime, or sophisticated environments. Gourmand fragrances (sweet/edible), nighttime or cold-weather fragrances, often found in niche or signature perfumery.

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Vanilla

Vanilla is one of the most iconic and prized raw materials in perfumery, both for its warm and enveloping aroma and its versatility in olfactory composition. Vanilla provides a soft, gourmand, and comforting sweetness, reminiscent of desserts, toasted sugar, or condensed milk. It has a slightly spicy and balsamic base that adds depth. It evokes a feeling of warmth, softness, and comfort. It helps anchor and stabilize other more volatile notes, such as floral or citrus notes. It enhances the longevity of the perfume. It is used to soften compositions and give them a more inviting and sensual character. It is key in perfumes from the gourmand family, which evoke edible flavors such as cakes, caramels, or creams.

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Chocolate

In perfumery chocolate is used as a gourmand note that adds depth, warmth and a comforting sensation to fragrances. It is characterized by being Sweet and creamy, Warm and enveloping, Slightly bitter or toasted (especially in the case of dark chocolate), With powdery touches, It can be reminiscent of desserts, chocolates, cocoa powder or even hot drinks such as hot chocolate, It provides a tasty and tempting character, widely used in sweet and modern perfumes, Chocolate can introduce a seductive and daring dimension, working very well in evening or more intense perfumes creating interesting contrasts between sweet and spicy or between floral and gourmand.

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Polianthes

Tuberose is an exotic flower highly prized in perfumery for its complex, rich, and enveloping fragrance. Its aroma is described as floral, sweet, creamy, slightly fruity, and with herbal undertones, giving it an opulent and sophisticated feel. Tuberose is known for its intensity and long-lasting power. Tuberose is a flower that brings richness, sophistication, and a touch of mystery to both men’s and women’s perfumes, offering a lasting and emotionally evocative olfactory experience.

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Freesia

Freesia is a flower widely used in perfumery due to its fresh, delicate, and floral scent. It is characterized by a soft, slightly fruity perfume, with notes reminiscent of citrus, a slightly sweet undertone, and sometimes an undertone of green essences. In floral-fruity perfumes, freesia can be the centerpiece of the composition, surrounded by notes such as rose, jasmine, or peony, creating a scent that is fresh and floral, but never cloying.

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Iris

Powdery, soft, and dusty (like talcum powder). Slightly floral, earthy, and with woody and musky notes. Sometimes reminiscent of the scent of violets. It adds depth, elegance, and a velvety effect to compositions.

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The aroma of grapefruit is highly prized in perfumery for its freshness, energy, and vivacity. Citrusy, fresh, and sparkling, it evokes energy, cleanliness, vitality, freshness, and optimism. Grapefruit provides a juicy acidity with a slightly bitter note, more complex than that of other citrus fruits such as lemon or orange. It can have green and floral undertones.

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